I’m deep in a state pine forest, the scent of damp earth curling into my lungs. It’s almost completely silent, except for the trees shifting in the breeze. I’m alone, wearing a yellow raincoat not just for cheer, but visibility. And then, I see it. Nestled amongst the fallen pine needles, a delicate orange cap curving up at the edges with visible concentric rings and a bruised green edge. I gently slice it with my foraging knife and orange milk seeps out. Saffron milk cap – I’ve found my first edible mushroom.
Foraging, especially as a chef, feels like plugging back into something primal and profound – an ancient method of connecting with the food that we eat.
But first, what even is foraging? Foraging, by definition, refers to the practice of searching for and gathering food from the wild. A skill that dates back to ancient times, foraging for food in the wild is gaining renewed popularity across Australia.
Though it is no longer a survival skill necessary in our modern, plugged in world, it’s a movement that is growing in appeal among urban and rural communities alike.
The growing popularity of urban foraging
Diego Bonetto, a respected Australian forager and educator, explains that foraging is rising in popularity amongst diverse groups who attend his workshops. Young families, gardeners, and bush regenerators, environmentalists, alternative medicinal practitioners and elder migrants flock to Bonetto’s workshops, all of whom are seeking to engage with nature in a more meaningful way through foraging.
Forager Diego Bonetto with a bounty of mushrooms. Credit: Sireshan Kander
Foraging offers something rare in this modern day and age: connection with nature, the thrill of discovery and the satisfaction of harvesting your own food. To be a true forager requires time, study and respect, but the pay-offs are well worth the investment.
Though foraging may seem simple, it requires a complex understanding of the environment, the plants and fungi that thrive there. More than just a set of skills learned from a book or video, foraging is a mindset that begins with understanding the seasons, respecting the cycle of nature and knowing what to take, how much and when.
Though there are plenty of online and book resources helping people understand the meaning of what it is to forage, it’s essential that novice foragers learn from seasoned guides directly in the field, as misidentifying plants or mushrooms can have dangerous consequences.
It is advisable to be guided by experts especially for first-time foragers.
It's easy to see the appeal of mushroom foraging as a growing number of people look to learn how they can ‘shop’ in the supermarket of their backyard. At Sydney’s Carriageworks market, prized foraged mushrooms such as slippery jacks and saffron milk caps can fetch up to $80 per kilo – that’s up to seven times more expensive than your average supermarket button mushroom.
However, many fungi (whether edible or poisonous) closely resemble one each other, with very subtle differences in their identifying features. “It’s not enough to do a quick Google search and assume that’s enough to forage safely,” Bonetto advises, “It is incredibly important for novice foragers to walk with an expert forager as a first step in order to lock in key identifying features of both edible mushrooms and their poisonous lookalikes. It’s easy to make a mistake as some mushrooms are very hard to tell apart.”
A good foraging teacher will help you identify and memorise key identifying features for what foods to pick, including specific shape, size, smell and colour to help teach you the confidence to practice foraging on your own.
The forgotten art of foraging
My own journey as a forager first started in the inner west where we learned to search for lilly pillies and pink peppercorns which led to a seaside foraging class to pick warrigal greens, followed by multiple mushroom foraging classes. Each new experience deepened my appreciation for the abundance of wild food around us and the ancient practice of connecting directly with the food we consume.
Australia is packed with native herbs and spices - and they may be more accessible than you think. Source: Instagram / Gayle and Mike Quarmby/Instagram
Armed with this knowledge, we headed into the forest to put our knowledge to the test. On our return, Diego meticulously sorted through our mushroom finds, inspecting each specimen to ensure that nothing poisonous had slipped into our baskets.
After a few weeks of carefully reviewing my workshop notes, I finally felt confident enough to try foraging enough alone. I selected an unmarked patch of state pine forest in Oberon to explore. No guide, no group, just me, my knife and the trees. Each foraged mushroom I found felt like I was uncovering hidden treasure and I filled my small basket with mixed funghi. On my return home, I made a simple wild mushroom mac and cheese.
Every bite was a reminder that the patience, learning and respect for the process had all been worth it. And how much I couldn’t wait to dive straight back into the forest next season.
Want to try foraging for yourself?
Here are five tips to get started:
Learn from the experts: Before venturing out on your own, take a class or join a guided foraging tour to understand the basics of plant and mushroom identification.
Start simple: Focus on easily identifiable species to build confidence before expanding your knowledge.
Know your terrain: Research local foraging locations and seasonal climate conditions to ensure peak foraging conditions.
Harvest with care: Pick only what you need, ensuring you take from abundance and select specimens at their peak condition. Respect the forest, leaving it undisturbed and un-littered as you leave.
Test your tolerance: Wild foods can be challenging to digest for some people. Taste small quantities to assess your tolerance before eating larger amounts.
